What's happening to my hair?
“I’ve known you for years and you are not going bald,” Zavaglia assures me.
“But what’s this then?” I say, pointing to my near-naked temples.
“That happens to most of us as we age, ” she says. “People take it for granted that their hair is going to look fabulous forever but it’s like your skin. One day you look in the mirror and there are lines and wrinkles that weren’t there before and it’s the same with your hair. You’ve probably had to adapt your beauty regime as you’ve got older, and you should be doing the same with your hair products.
“Also, we tend to neglect our scalps and this is actually where it all starts. A healthy scalp will promote healthy hair so that’s when things like regular massage become important to stimulate the blood flow.”
According to Salvatore Sorce, Kérastase National Education Manager, our hair’s ageing process starts in our mid-twenties and, as our metabolism slows, the production of sebum decreases, leading to a dryer scalp and hair. Lacking suppleness, the scalp starts to tighten, thus reducing the diameter of the hair shaft, so while you may have the same number of follicles, thinner individual strands make for less volume. These thinner hairs are also more prone to breakage, making them more fragile and harder to style with time.
The root of the problem
Our hair grows from follicles and we’re born with about 100,000 of them on our scalps. No new follicles develop after birth. In fact, we lose some each year as we get older. When it comes to hair growth, it’s all about the follicle and the lower part of the follicle is the only section where hair is alive.
Hair grows in three stages; anagen, catagen and telogen.
Anagen is the growth phase when the hair grows one centimetre every month and for scalp hair, anagen lasts about three to four years.
Catagen is the breaking down phase that lasts only two weeks. During this time, the hair strand dies and the lower two-thirds of the hair follicle is completely destroyed. The hair still remains in place during this period but stops growing.
Telogen is the dormant phase of the hair cycle. It lasts for about three months and for most of this time, the dead hair strand stays firmly put in the follicle until a new hair pushes it out. The hairs you notice coming out each day with brushing and washing are telogen hairs. They’ve stopped growing and are recognisable by their white bulb at the root.
“For most people,” says trichologist and hair loss expert David Salinger, “it’s normal to lose up to 100 hairs a day.”
What’s not normal is an increase in your usual amount of shedding. Temporary hair loss is characterised by a quick increase in hair loss from all over the scalp, explains Salinger, and the cause normally occurs about three months before the hair loss – stopping medication (including oral contraception), sudden dietary changes, high fevers and operations are common triggers.
Female pattern hair loss (FPHL) or ‘genetic thinning in women’ as Salinger likes to describe it, is different to temporary hair loss. It’s a genetic condition and fifty per cent of women are predisposed to it.
According to Salinger, as women approach menopause, estrogen levels drop which increases the influence of male sex hormones (androgens) on the hair. In those women with a genetic disposition, this change in the balance of sex hormones will cause hairs in the front/top of the scalp to gradually become finer and shorter, leading to temporal recession of hair and thinning of hair while some hair follicles in this area will also disappear.
Heading for treatment
Once a specialist determines the cause of your hair loss (with blood tests, a scalp biopsy or microscopic examination of the of hairs and the scalp) they will then be able to offer the appropriate treatment.
Although there’s not a lot you can do to change your genes, if you are diagnosed with FPHL the best way to treat it is with the anti-androgen medications such as spironolactane and cyproterone acetate.
The effects of these drugs work only as long as they’re being taken but they seem to stop further hair loss and may stimulate regrowth in some women.
Another option that proves successful is minoxidil lotion (Rogaine), a hair growth lotion applied directly to the scalp and halts further hair loss and, in approximately 60 per cent of women, stimulates mild to moderate hair regrowth.
The suggested treatment is applying the five per cent solution every evening before going to bed and then in the morning, washing, conditioning and styling your hair as usual.
Maximising Growth Potential
Diet
“For healthy hair, you can’t beat a good healthy diet,” says food coach and nutrition expert Judy Davie, “but there are some specific foods and nutrients you can eat to help slow down the loss and improve the condition of the remaining hair.”
She says stimulating and enhancing the circulation to the hair follicle may be achieved by eating plenty of foods rich in vitamin E. Food sources include avocado, cold-pressed vegetable oils, wheat germ oil, raw seeds and nuts, dried beans and leafy green vegetables. Biotin deficiency may be a result of hair thinning – some of the best sources include liver, egg yolk, cereals and yeast.
The body also produces biotin from the bacteria in the digestive system so to promote the growth of good bacteria, the production of biotin and consequently hair growth, eat plenty of natural yoghurt with probiotics or consider a probiotic supplement like acidophilus powder. Davie also says mineral deficiencies can cause hair loss.
“Iron, potassium and zinc are all associated with healthy hair growth, although care must be taken to prevent an excessive intake of zinc as it may actually increase hair loss. Find the minerals from food first and include red meat, oysters, mussels, bananas, apricots and wheat germ and pumpkin seeds.”
Sleep
Hair growth occurs during sleep and hair loss can occur when you’re stressed so it’s imperative you get good quality sleep. Although we all don’t need the same amount of sleep try to get a regular six to eight hours every night. Don’t overload your stomach before bed and avoid stimulants like coffee, chocolate or excessive alcohol.
Exercise
Hair benefits from exercise and good circulation to encourage a healthy blood flow to the scalp, so try to get 20-30 minutes exercise at least three times a week.
Healthy hair growth checklist
• Eliminate smoking, caffeine and soft drinks.
• Eat a healthy diet, including plenty of protein and avoiding foods high in fat and sugar.
• Treat your hair gently – blot it dry after washing, don’t rub and detangle wet hair with a wide-tooth comb, not a brush.
• Wash hair with tepid water and try to avoid over use of thermal appliances like blow dryers and irons. Extreme heat damages the proteins in hair making it fragile and more susceptible to breakage
• Minimise chemical treatments and protect your hair when it’s in the sun.
• Have regular trims to eliminate split ends and breakage.
• Invest in regular salon treatments to strengthen and nourish hair.
Read more about thin hair.